Quality
noun
"the standard of something as measured against other things of a similar kind; the degree of excellence of something"
Quality of a garment can be found in both the fabric used and the construction.
It can be pretty easy to see the difference between luxury and performance cloth, a luxury cloth is much softer and has more detail, while performance cloth is usually made of basic patterns with a harder finish.
Construction of a garment however, is harder to detect with an untrained eye. Take jackets for example, they can be fused, half canvas or full canvas. Then you are looking for machine made versus handmade details.
Generally the more time and effort that it takes to construct the jacket the higher the quality. All have advantages and disadvantages, the question is do you want more pieces in your wardrobe or fewer pieces of higher quality.
The bespoke tailored garment is something which is planned out, much like building a custom home. In that process you are working with an architect and a budget, you pick out the structural features, square footage of the rooms and the decor.
Milanese Buttonholes
The word boutonniere is in fact the French word for buttonhole, A trend made popular in Paris is the boutonnière Milanaise, or in English, the Milanese buttonhole.
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The offering of a Milanese buttonhole is something only a quality tailor can provide. Where machine made buttonholes have the lapel buttonhole stitched by machine and cut afterwards, the Milanese must be cut first and then carefully hand-stitched after.
It involves a piece of thread called a “gimp” which is hand-stitched to surround the buttonhole. The Milanese buttonhole is a true sign of quality in a custom made garment.